Stained Glass Tunisian Sweater by Roeska from HandmadebyRoeska

MEET THE Stained Glass Tunisian Sweater 

Hi! I am Roeska from the lovely city of Utrecht, the Netherlands. I am 30ish, mom of 2 going on 3 and have a background in Biology, after doing research for my PhD in molecular plant development, I am now working as lecturer Biomedical Sciences at the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam.

I have always been crafty (mostly some sewing and cross stitching), but that was mostly on and off, until I discovered the beautiful art of crochet, which I’ve started in 2017. After Owen was born in April 2019, I set up my IG-account and discovered and started pattern testing and have not stopped since. My first pattern was published in January 2020 (flowerette scrunchies) and first garment in August 2020. I have found a passion for Tunisian Crochet after being gifted beautiful wooden Tunisian hooks by my husband and pattern testing a Tunisian Crochet bag for Ashley @wishuponahook. After pattern testing loads I’ve found I love to make garments and I understand the construction, so I have combined the two ever since: this is my debut Tunisian garment, but I am sure more will follow! 

This pattern combines two basic Tunisian stitches: the Tunisian simple stitch and the Tunisian purl stitch. Together they form a honeycomb stitch! Also, I love how in Tunisian crochet there is a forward pass and a return pass and I love playing around with bold, statement colours. So, when I was on my summer holiday this year (in my own backyard), I tried to use two different colours for the forward and the return pass and loved it so much I wanted to share it with the world – and see if I could design a garment. Encouraged by my CROMIES – a lovely group of other crocheters and designers I have met on the gram – and by Lion Brand, who kindly agreed to sponsor me with the yarn, I have designed this Tunisian Crochet sweater.

So when I made the swatch in pink and black, it reminded me of Stained Glass – an idea started to form in my head. Then – and this is the boring part – I just did it. Made a swatch, blocked it and gauged it. From an idea to a reality sometimes just means doing it, adjusting as you go and most of all writing down every little thing you do. 

I wanted you to enjoy the Honeycomb stitch while making this sweater, so there are no increases or decreases. The off shoulder yoke shows off your clavicles and the boxy fit allows you to feel extremely comfortable in it! 

I have added traditional crochet for the edging and the cuffs – to add a little shape and to have your contract colour stand out more. It has become my favourite sweater of 2020 (until my belly became too big to wear it) and I cannot wait until I can wear it again this year. I hope you enjoy making and wearing it as much as I did designing it! 

Pattern Notes

• The Stained Glass Tunisian Sweater pattern and photographs are the property of HandmadebyRoeska and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not alter, share, or sell this pattern in any way. However, you are more than welcome to sell the finished product. Please credit HandmadebyRoeska by including a link to the pattern listing if you are selling the finished piece online.

• Sizes: bust size 1: 31-34”; 2: 35-38”; 3: 39-42”; 4: 43-46”; 5: 47-50”; 6: 51-54”; 7: 55-58”; 8: 59-62”

• This sweater is constructed as a top-down sweater, starting around the shoulders. Then the edging and the sleeves are added. You can opt for a shorter/longer sweater by omitting/adding length (this will use less/more yarn than stated). 

• The sweater has -1 to 1” of ease, so is closely fitted to the bust. The sweater has a “boxy” fit, and there is no waist shaping. The body ends in an edge that is slightly tighter to sit at the top of your hips. The sleeves will also have that boxy shape, with a fitted cuff around the wrists. 

• If you choose to use a heavier yarn, like cotton, the sweater could drag down from the shoulders. To overcome this, you could add an elastic band to the yoke to keep it on the shoulders. 

• All the measurements are in inches. Turning chains do not count as stitches. Pattern is written for the smallest size, with the stitch counts for the larger sizes in the parenthesis; 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8). At the end of the Round the stitch count for the row is given as follows: (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8).  

This pattern was tech edited by Tiffany Wooten @wootcrafts

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Materials

Stitch Abbreviations 

● Ch – chain

● FwdP – Forward Pass

● RetP – Return Pass

● PM – Place Marker

● Tss – Tunisian simple stitch

● Tps – Tunisian purl stitch

● Slst – slip stitch

● Sc – single crochet

● Sc2tog – single crochet two together

● Sk – skip stitch

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Pattern Yoke

With the 6.5mm (US K/10.5) traditional hook and MC: Ch 138, 154, 174, 188, 206, 222, 240, 256. The loop on your hook counts as a st! Do not twist the chain and close the circle with a slst. 

Change to the double ended Tunisian 6mm (US J/10) hook.
Round 1 (FwdP): Tss in the back bump of each chain (139, 155, 175, 189, 207, 223, 241, 257st). PM in the first st. 

Round 1 (RetP): Attach CC and start the RetP. 

Round 2 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tps and Tss around (139, 155, 175, 189, 207, 223, 241, 257st). 

Round 2 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

Round 3 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tss and Tps around (139, 155, 175, 189, 207, 223, 241, 257st). 

Round 3 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

As we now work in the Round, continue Round 2 (FwdP and RetP) and Round 3 (FwdP and RetP) until your yoke measures 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5”. 

Sleeve separation 

Join the MC and CC yarn and using both MC and CC

ch 24, 26, 28, 30, 34, 38, 40, 42

Sk 26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 44

PM in the first st and last st skipped and in the first and last ch made (4 stitch markers placed).

In MC only: FwdP: 44, 50, 58, 63, 68, 72, 79, 85 st in Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tss and Tps (check if you need to start with a Tss or a Tps)

In CC only: RetP: 44, 50, 58, 63, 68, 72, 79, 85 st

Join the MC and CC yarn and using both MC and CC

Ch 24, 26, 28, 30, 34, 38, 40, 42

Sk  26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 44
PM in the first st and last st skipped and in the first and last ch made (4 stitch markers placed).
In MC only: FwdP: 43, 49, 57, 62, 67, 71, 78, 84 st in Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tss and Tps  (check if you need to start with a Tss or a Tps)

In CC only: RetP: 43, 49, 57, 62, 67, 71, 78, 84 st

Body

Round 1 (FwdP): Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. In MC: continue Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tss and Tps. In the chains of previous Round: Tss (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253)

Round 1 (RetP): In CC: continue RetP. 

Round 2 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tps and Tss around (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253). 

Round 2 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

Round 3 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch: alternate Tss and Tps around (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253). 

Round 3 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

Continue Round 2 (FwdP and RetP) and Round 3 (FwdP and RetP) until your body measures 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15” OR until your desired length is reached.
The edging will add approximately 2” in length. 

Edging

Change to a 5 mm (US H/8) traditional crochet hook. Rounds 1 and 2 will be worked around the FwdP (both) vertical bars of the last Tunisian Round in MC – both Rounds will be in the same space to fill it. Round 3 will be worked around the horizontal bars of the last Tunisian Round in CC. Then Round 4 and further will be done in traditional crochet. 

Round 1: In CC: slst around each Tunisian stitch of the last Round of the body. Change to MC in the last slst (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253) 

Round 2: In MC: slst around each Tunisian stitch of the last Round of the body. Change to CC in the last slst (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253st) 

Round 3: In CC: ch1, sc around the horizontal bars of the last Tunisian Round – not in the slst of Round 1 and 2, slst to the first sc made (135, 151, 171, 185, 203, 219, 237, 253st). 

Round 4: Ch1, *sc10, sc2tog* repeat 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 21 times, sc in remaining sts. slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232st). 

Round 5: Ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232st). 

Round 6: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232st). 

Round 7: In CC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 8: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 9: In CC: ch1, sc around, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 10: In CC: ch1, sc around, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 11: In CC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 12: In MC: ch1, sc around, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). 

Round 13: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). Fasten off MC. 

Round 14: In CC: slst around (124, 139, 157, 170, 187, 201, 218, 232). Fasten off CC. 

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Sleeves

Change to the double ended Tunisian 6mm hook.
At the bottom (body) side of the sleevehole, attach yarn on the 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 20, 22th chain (counted left to right) (See picture A), PM. 

Round 1: Tss in each chain (12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 20, 21) until the stitch marker (1)

At the border between bottom (body) and top (yoke), add 1 st (See picture B).

From the stitch marker (2): alternate between Tss and Tps in honeycomb stitch pattern, according to the previous Round and added stitch until the next stitch marker (3) (26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 44).

At the border between top (yoke) and bottom (body), add 1 st.

From the stitch marker (4): Tss in each remaining chain (12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 20, 21) until the first stitch made this Round.

Before continuing into Round 2 in Honeycomb stitch pattern, add (1) more stitch by adding a Tss through the chains. Your Round should now have 53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89 st and continuing into Round 2 should be possible in the Honeycomb stitch pattern.

Round 1 (RetP): Attach CC to the first st and start the RetP. 

Round 2 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch pattern: alternate Tps and Tss around (53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89). 

Round 2 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

Round 3 (FwdP): In MC: Bring the stitch marker from the previous Round to the first st. Honeycomb stitch pattern: alternate Tss and Tps around (53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89). 

Round 3 (RetP): In CC: continue the RetP.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until the sleeve measures (from under armpit to wrist) 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5” OR until your desired length is reached. 

The cuffs will add approximately 2” in length. 

Cuffs

Change to a 5 mm (US H/8) traditional crochet hook. Like in the edging: Rounds 1 and 2 will be worked around the FwdP (both) vertical bars of the last Tunisian Round in MC – both Rounds will be in the same space to fill it. Round 3 will be worked around the horizontal bars of the last Tunisian Round in CC. Then Round 4 and further will be done in traditional crochet. 

Round 1: In CC: slst around each Tunisian stitch of the last Round of the body. Change to MC in the last slst  (53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89) 

Round 2: In MC: slst around each Tunisian stitch of the last Round of the body. Change to CC in the last slst (53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89) 

Round 3: In CC: ch1, sc around the horizontal bars of the last Tunisian Round – not in the slst of Round 1 and 2, slst to the first sc made (53, 57, 61, 65, 73, 81, 85, 89).

Round 4: Ch1, *sc2tog* repeat 26, 28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 44 times, sc in remaining st. slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 5: Ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 6: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 7: In CC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 8: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 9: In CC: ch1, sc around, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 10: In CC: ch1, sc around, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 11: In CC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to MC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 12: In MC: ch1, sc around. Slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). 

Round 13: In MC: ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). Fasten off MC. 

Round 14: In CC: slst around (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 41, 43, 45). Fasten off CC. 

Make a second sleeve. 

Neckline

Using a 5 mm (US H/8) traditional crochet hook. Attach MC to the beginning chains. 

Round 1: Ch1, sc around, in last sc, change to CC, slst to the first sc made (138, 154, 174, 188, 206, 222, 240, 256). Fasten off MC.

Round 2:  In CC: slst around (138, 154, 174, 188, 206, 222, 240, 256). Fasten off CC. 

Finishing

Weave in ends and block according to fibre. 

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I hope you enjoy the pattern. For more patterns from HandmadebyRoeska, check out the HandmadebyRoeska on Instagram. Don’t forget to use the #handmadebyRoeska #StainedGlassTunisianSweater hashtag on Instagram – I can’t wait to see how your beautiful new Stained Glass Tunisian Sweater works up!

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