Meggie here from make with meggie. Very excited to be here I should add, as well as many thanks to Elisabeth for trusting a new-to-the-scene designer with a post on her blog.
At the time I found out she had accepted me to post, my first pattern had been released only three months before, in July 2020. With that news, Elisabeth gave me both a boost of confidence, and in a year filled with a variety of challenges, a challenge that I was very much looking forward to!
It turns out, it was also an opportunity to see some mini challenges met. I think we should all look for more mini challenges. Sometimes, the mini-er the better. If we keep breaking things down into smaller, easier to achieve parts and then go about achieving just one part at a time, you can say you met a lot of challenges, and I find that motivating. Baby steps, glass half full thinking, whatever you want to call it, it can work!
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But before I back this up to the beginning, I’d like to introduce to you my Sparks Fly hat and mitts set. Worked in super chunky yarn from the brim up (cuffs up on the mitts), this matching set will keep you cozy in style. The vertical zig zags lend an understated drama, equally suited for a mens or women’s set. Love solid coloured yarn? Go for it. Variegated? Likewise. Lion Brand provided me with my pick, Wool Ease Thick and Quick in Storm Front.
I’m a sucker for pink, and the subtle pink, blue and white tones through the grey called to my romantic heart. I also loved how as highlights throughout the grey, it doesn’t create a strong striping effect. I definitely recommend a wool blend like Wool-Ease Thick and Quick for extra warmth, at 80% acrylic and 20% wool, the wool makes a big difference in heat retention while the acrylic prevents the itch sometimes associated with wool.
I’d also like to take a minute to thank my friend Caroline, who as a left-handed crocheter, frequently tests for me to help ensure my patterns are as easy to follow as possible regardless of handedness. She gifted this set to her sister Melanie for Christmas, and I am lucky enough to have some of my photos featuring Melanie in the set Caroline made her. I love being able to show it to you in another colour way as well, she chose to also use Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick but in Hudsons Bay. I absolutely love how it turned out, and although I tend to shy away from using colours that self stripe myself, I think I need to be a little bolder and try more that do after seeing it!
To make the complete set requires 3 (87 yard) skeins of Wool Ease Thick and Quick, or your #6 super bulky yarn of choice. If you like the colours available in the bonus bundle size skeins, you will need two of them. If you’re lucky, depending on the sizes you are making, you may have enough left in the second bonus bundle to make the hat a second time. One more yarn picture because I adore the colour way.
Ordinarily, I prefer to alter the stitch counts to achieve different sizes, however, with the super bulky yarn, a small change goes a long way, literally. To add another repeat of the pattern would make an enormous hat unless I asked us all to work wrist-killingly tight (I did this once, when I was a new crocheter. I had only ever seen the Thick and Quick version of Wool Ease in stores here and when working a pattern that called for Wool Ease, didn’t know I’d used the wrong yarn. I happily worked away with my 6 weight yarn and 4mm hook on the toddler size hat I was making, realizing somewhere half way through it seemed a bit large. Another couple rounds confirmed it. I finished it and gave it to my mom and not only would it keep her warm if she moved to Antarctica, but it has been dubbed “the helmet” as it is so thick). You also lose a lot of the lovely bulky appeal working that tightly.
So for this pattern, I give different recommended hook sizes for each hat size. To make this easier, since not everyone has the same natural tension and I know we often end up adjusting to meet gauge, I have given measurements to hit at multiple point through the ribbing to ensure correct gauge and hook size. The body of both hat and mitts are then worked in a 2mm larger hook than that of the ribbing. I like a tighter ribbing, both for the stretch, as well as how it blocks more wind at the ears. It is also very easy to work crossed stitches and cabling tighter than intended, so a larger hook helps prevent a smaller than intended body for the work.
Since, as I mentioned, a little really goes a long way with the super bulky yarn, even after selecting the correct hook to make the size you want, I suggest trying on regularly to ensure a proper fit. A small change in your natural tension as you work, even as you adjust to working the stitch pattern, could translate to quite a difference in size.
If, like both Caroline and I do, you live in one of the more unforgiving winter climates (Hello from Alberta Canada!), you may also be entering the truly frigid part of winter. The snow may arrive not long after fall does (how many of your childhood Halloween costumes had to be able to fit on top of your snowsuit?), and I know explained over and over to my kindergartener about “yes there’s snow, yes it’s already December, but Winter actually starts on a certain date in December”, but true true Winter settles in mid-January and lasts through most of February. And early March if it’s in a bad mood.
So if you know Winter in the same way I do, or even know Winter to be not-as-cold-as-there-she-must-be-crazy-because-she-hasn’t-moved-yet but still way colder than the rest of the year prepares you for, you know the joy and the value of a warm hat.
Challenge: Stay warm. But also stylish. Thank you chunky hat trend. Actually, forget the word trend, these better be here to stay. I absolutely adore texture, so it’s probably not a surprise to hear I love cabling. But I just wasn’t feeling all twisty this time. After playing with some ideas, I settled on vertical zig-zags. The very first version had just two paired together and a larger space in between them, but it looked a bit sparse on texture so I added another zig zagging column of post stitches to the pair and the design started coming to life.
To achieve the zig zags, you will be using the same techniques as for cabling, however, the post stitches never actually cross each other in this case. Theres plenty of crossing the surrounding half double crochets, but here, each column of post stitches may swerve, but keeps to it’s own road.
You will be turning your work after each round, this means you will be working in right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) rounds, each joined with a slipstitch. The picture above shows the work after turning and about to start a WS round. I labelled the turning chain of ch 1, and the slipstitch used to join the RS round just finished. It will look like you are skipping a stitch, but you should work your first stitch into the last stitch of the previous row, where my hook is inserted in the picture. You may find it helpful to place a stitch mark in the last stitch of the round before joining, chaining 1 and turning. Ensuring you do this every time you turn will not only keep your zig zags lined up, but will create a nearly invisible join.
Don’t feel overwhelmed if you are new cabling. It’s just your next mini challenge. Both hat and mitts are built on 4 row repeats. And every round of the hat is made of an 8-stitch pattern repeated 4 times. Within those 8 stitches, only 6 are involved in creating the zig zag motion, which is actually just directions for 2 stitches done 3 times. So basically, learning what to do with 2 stitches each round for the first 4 rounds. Totally approachable. In fact, two of my testers had never done cabling before, and one was also new to post stitches, and both had great success and beautiful finished sets!
If you are also new to post stitches or just require a refresher, I have a video tutorial on making post stitches on YouTube you can watch here.
This brings me back to Caroline and her lovely left-handed crocheted set. Close observers may have already noticed, the zig zags on her set zig and zag the opposite directions as than on mine. This and the left mitt coming out as the right mitt and vice versa are the only differences in working this left-handed. This is simply because the work is done across from left to right rather than right to left, so when there is a skipped stitch, post stitch, and hdc worked in the skipped stitch, the top of the post stitch has been moved to the right instead of left. The same instructions work with no changes, only the zigs will zag and zags will zig!
This year, we may have more good reasons to stay inside, and some of us, more time to take on a new challenge, skill, or project (congrats to all those who picked up crocheting in the last year!), now my challenge to you is make yourself something new, maybe even learning something new while doing it, and then… here’s the biggest part of the challenge, find a reason to go outside! Go for a walk, shovel a neighbour or a stranger’s driveway, skate, ski, snowshoe, build a snowman, make a snow angel, have a snowball fight, grab a toboggan, catch a snowflake on your tongue, even just stand on your front step or balcony long enough to appreciate a hot chocolate when you come back inside. Or maybe you’re one of those polar bear swimmers. Or have always wanted to be. Excuse me while I don’t join you.
Just getting outside in the cold when there’s no larger reason to and almost nowhere to go can be a challenge, but one you can easily achieve over and over. Especially with the right hat and mitts. *wink wink*
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The pattern is here free for you below. If you prefer having an easy to print copy that contains direct links to stitch tutorials (hot tip: clicking only works on the digital copy!) and gauge charts, or just like to show support for designers to create more great patterns, you can grab a copy in my LoveCrafts or Etsy shops.
I would love to see your finished work! Don’t forget to tag me @makewithmeggie on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. You can also add #makewithmeggie and #sparksflyset to share with others doing the same thing.
Individuals may sell items made from this pattern as long as pattern credit is given and linked when possible. Must use photos of your own work and not mine to sell your products. Pattern is not to be sold or resold. If you sell finished items made using this pattern, please consider buying a copy of the downloadable PDF.
Difficulty Level/Skills Required/Techniques Used
This is an intermediate level pattern. Keeping in mind that one needs to try something to learn it, an experienced beginner familiar with post stitches and ready to learn cabling techniques should be able too.
This pattern uses cabling techniques, although unlike working typical crochet cables, you will need to take care that none of the post stitches cross each other. You will still be require to work in front of, or behind another stitch in the place of a previously skipped stitch sometimes.
Once the post stitches are established in Round 2 of the hat body or mitts, the rest of the post stitches will only be worked around the post stitches from the previous round.
Materials
Yarn: Super chunky/bulky (6 weight) I used Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick in my sample in the colour Storm Front 3 skeins (87 yards skeins)
Hook: 7mm and 9mm or what you require to meet gauge. Find hook size required for ribbing first, then use 2 sizes larger for the hat and mitt bodies (ex: 6mm and 8mm, 7mm and 9mm, 8mm and 10mm)
Notions: darning needle to weave ends
Pom-pom if desired (and large metal snap if desired, for easy removal)
Gauge
This will vary depending on size being made.
| Hat Size | Completed Ribbing Length (40 rows) | Length at 10 rows | Length at 20 rows |
| Adult S | 16 1/2” | 4 1/8 “ | 8 1/4” |
| Adult M | 17 1/2” | 4 3/8” | 8 3/4” |
| Adult L | 18 1/2” | 4 5/8” | 9 1/4” |
| Mitt Size | Completed Ribbing Length (18 rows) | Length at 9 rows |
| Adult S | 6 3/4” | 3 3/8” |
| Adult M | 7 3/4” | 3 7/8” |
| Adult L | 8 3/4” | 4 3/8” |
You can see just a small tension change can make quite a difference, however this ribbing is quite fast to work, so if you have to try again, it won’t take long. I made both small and large sizes with the same two hooks by changing my tension, so use what makes working most comfortable for you. I highly recommend trying on occasionally as you work as well. There is also some forgiveness in the stretch of the fabric.
Size
Hat
Adult S – fits 21” head
Adult M (mens S) – fits 22” head
Adult L (mens M) – fits 23” head
(Adult XL (mens L) can be easily made by relaxing tension slightly from Adult L)
Mitts
Adult S – fits hands of 7” circumference and 6” length
Adult M – fits hands of 7.5” circumference and 6.5” length
Adult L – fits hands of 8” circumference and 7.5” length
(Adult XL (mens L) can be easily made by relaxing tension slightly from Adult L)
Abbreviations, Glossary, References, Techniques
US terms used throughout.
Do not count turning chains.
ch chain
sc single crochet
slst slipstitch
hdc half double crochet
fpdc front post double crochet
bpdc back post double crochet
hdc2tog hdc two together
BLO work in back loop only
WS wrong side of work
RS right side of work
Tutorials available both on my blog makewithmeggie.com and YouTube makewithmeggie.
Pattern Notes
The hat is worked from the bottom up by creating a length of ribbing, joining, then working into the side of the loop. You will switch to the larger hook after joining the ribbing.
It is important not to work the hat body too tightly or creating the zig-zag pattern will become difficult, and the hat may become quite stiff. Even with the larger hook, you may have to work a little looser or even size up another hook if you usually work more tightly.
Working in front or behind refers to the work as it is facing you, regardless of being a WS or RS row.
The hat body uses a repeated 8 stitch pattern a total of 5 times around.
A four row repeat is established in Rounds 2 through 5 of the hat body. Every time you work Round 3, note you will be working the first stitch around the middle post stitch of the previous row and working what seems like the skipped post stitch at the end of the round.
All rounds of the hat body are joined with a slipstitch, chain 1 and turned before working the next round.
Row/Round stitch counts occasionally follow in brackets. When there is no change, usually no count will be shown.
Hat instructions are found on pages 6 & 7.
Mitt instructions are found on pages 8 & 9.
Finishing instructions are found following each method, and again on page 10.
If you are new to cabling techniques, you may find it easier to start with the mitts as you get to see the zig zag progress faster without as many repeats around, as well as having a chance to get a hang of the work patterning before splitting the set of three vertical post stitches on either side of the first stitch of the round as in Round 3 of the hat.
There is an extra row indicated in the mitts for size M with long fingers and size L. If making for small hand with very long fingers, this row will be useful too. If making for hands that are quite long, after working for 9, and extra round of hdc only before working round 13 will add even more length.
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR LEFT-HANDED CROCHETERS
The same instructions can be followed, however please note that the zig-zags will be a mirror image to the photos. As well, when following Round 4 of the mitts, the left hand mitt version will create a right mitt and right hand mitt will create a left mitt.
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Method
Hat
Ribbed Band – with 7 mm hook (or smaller of the two you need to meet gauge)
Ch 7
Row 1: Sc in second from hook and in next 5. Ch 1. Turn. (6)
Row 2: Sc across in BLO. Ch 1. Turn. (6)
Rows 3 – 40: Repeat Row 2
After Row 40, ribbing should be approx. 16.5”long for S/M, 18” for M/L.
Ch 1, slst first and last rows together ensuring band is not twisted. Turn so seam is on inside of band.
Hat Body – with 9 mm hook (or the larger of the two you need to meet gauge)
Round 1(RS): Ch 1, working over starting yarn tail so you don’t have to weave it in after, hdc 40 around edge of ribbed band. Join, ch 1. Turn. (40 throughout hat body)
Round 2 (WS): *Hdc 2, [skip 1, hdc in next, bpdc in skipped] 3 times*. Repeat *to* 5 times total. Join, Ch 1. Turn.
Round 3 (RS): Skip 1, fpdc around second post stitch of previous row, hdc behind in skipped stitch. Skip 1, fpdc around next post stitch, hdc behind in skipped stitch, hdc 2. *[Skip 1, fpdc around next post stitch, hdc behind in skipped stitch] 3 times, hdc 2*. Repeat *to* 4 times total. Skip 1, fpdc around next post stitch, hdc behind in skipped stitch. Join to top of first fpdc of round, ch 1. Turn.
Round 4 (WS): *Hdc 2, [skip 1, bpdc around post stitch, hdc in front in skipped stitch] 3 times*. Repeat *to* 5 times total. Join, ch 1. Turn.
Round 5 (RS): *Hdc, [skip 1, hdc, fpdc in front around post stitch. This fpdc counts as working the skipped stitch] 3 times, hdc*. Repeat *to* 5 times total. Join, ch1, Turn.
Rounds 6 – 9: Repeat Rounds 2 – 5, working Round 2 post stitches around post stitches, working in front.
Round 10 & 11: Repeat Rounds 2 & 3, working Round 2 post stitches around post stitches, working in front.
Finish off leaving tail long enough to gather top of hat.
Using darning needle, weave tail in and out a stitch at a time through Round 11 just under the v’s formed on top. Gather by pulling tightly. Make a couple stitches across the top if necessary to finish tightening. Knot inconspicuously on the inside and weave in end.
Attach pom-pom if desired, sewing one end of snap onto pom-pom and one end onto top of hat if you want to make the pom-pom easily removable for washing or to change it occasionally.
My Go Faux It pom-pom crochet pattern (crocheted faux fur pom-pom) is available in my LoveCrafts and Etsy shops.
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Mitts – make 2. Be sure to use LH Round 4 once and RH Round 4 once.
Ribbed Band – with smaller of 2 hooks
Ch 7
Row 1: Sc in second from hook and in next 5. Ch 1. Turn. (6)
Row 2: Sc across in BLO. Ch 1. Turn. (6)
Rows 3 – 18: Repeat Row 2
After last row, ribbing should be approx. ? long for S, ? for M, ? for L
Ch 1, slst first and last rows together ensuring band is not twisted. Turn so seam is on inside of band.
Mitt Body – with larger of 2 hooks
Round 1 (RS): Hdc 18 around. Join, ch 1. Turn. (18)
Round 2 (WS): Hdc 5, [skip 1, hdc in next, bpdc in skipped] 3 times, hdc 7. Join, ch 1. Turn. (18)
Round 3 (RS): Hdc 5, [skip 1, fpdc around post stitch, hdc behind in skipped stitch] 3 times, hdc 7. Join, ch 1, turn.
Left Hand Round 4 (WS): Hdc 6, [skip 1, bpdc around post stitch, hdc in front in skipped] 3 times, hdc, ch 2, skip next 2, hdc 3. Join, ch 1, turn. Work into ch 2 in Round 5 as regular stitches.
Right Hand Round 4 (WS): Hdc 2, ch 2, skip next 2, hdc 2, [skip 1, bpdc around post stitch, hdc in front in skipped] 3 times, hdc 6. Join, ch 1, turn. Work into ch 2 in Round 5 as regular stitches.
Round 5 (RS): Hdc 7, [skip 1, hdc in next, fpdc in front around post stitch. This fpdc counts as working the skipped stitch] 3 times, hdc 5. Join, ch 1, turn.
Rounds 6 – 9: Repeat Rounds 2 – 5, working Round 2 post stitches around post stitches, working in front. Work 2 hdc instead of ch 2 when repeating Round 4.
Round 10 (WS): Hdc 2, hdc2tog, hdc, [skip 1, hdc in next, bpdc in front around skipped] 3 times, hdc 2, hdc2tog, hdc 3. Join, ch 1. Turn. (16)
Round 11 (RS): Hdc 2, hdc2tog, [skip 1, fpdc around post stitch, hdc behind in skipped stitch] 3 times, hdc 2, hdc2tog, hdc 2. Join, ch 1. Turn. (14)
Round 12 (WS): Hdc 2, hdc2tog, hdc 6,, hdc2tog, hdc 2. Join, ch1. Turn. (12)
Sizes S/M with long fingers, and L only.
Round 13 (RS): [Hdc, hdc2tog] 4 times. Join. (8)
All Sizes
Finish off leaving tail long enough to gather top of mitt.
Using darning needle, weave tail in and out a stitch at a time through Round 13 just under the v’s formed on top. Gather by pulling tightly. Knot inconspicuously on the inside and weave in end.
Thumb
Attach yarn to thumb hole near palm with RS facing (make sure mitt is not inside out), ch 1.
Round 1: Hdc 6 evenly around. Join, ch 1. Turn. (6)
Rounds 2 – 4 (5, ?): Hdc 6. Join, ch 1, Turn. (6) Do not ch 1 after last round.
Finish off leaving tail long enough to gather.
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Using darning needle, weave tail in and out a stitch at a time through Round 13 just under the v’s formed on top. Gather by pulling tightly. Knot inconspicuously on the inside and weave in end.
I would love to see your finished work! Don’t forget to tag me @makewithmeggie on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. You can also add #makewithmeggie and #sparksflyset to share with others doing the same thing.
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